originally uploaded by nycduncan.
View our flickr photo feed from our time in Thailand. Cambodia photo feed soon to come!
So here we are in Cambodia. We have been for the past three days. Before i describe our time in Cambodia, let me just say that getting across the border from Thailand was all the hell that they warned us it would be. You know, we read all the information and post about the scams, the bad roads, the heat but we did not really think it was going to be this way. Well let us say that it was that and more.
Our friends Cara and Serena arrived from New York and San Francisco respectively to meet us in Bangkok. Boy, was it great to see some familiar faces. We headed to Cambodia together after one day in Bangkok. First we took a 6 am train for 5 hours from Bangkok to the border. That was fine. Again the train was old and made lots of noise but we were in second class which meant that instead of hard benches like most on the train we paid extra from old reclining seats and some antique looking fans overhead. Ahhhh, the good life!!!!!!
Anway once we got to the cambodian border, that is where the drama started. First, note that we did have our visa’s from cambodia that we got online. Thank goodness because that eliminated us having to stand in line with other, already exhausted looking tourist who most likely had to pay way too much for their visas. You see it is already known that there are multiple scams that take place at the border and tourist have to be very careful.
First this guy who was pretending to work with the immigration and handing out entry forms tried to get us to use a shuttle bus that he said we absolutely had to take in order to do the three hour trip into the city of Siem Reep. We kept telling him “no”" and Charles told him that he did not have an official government tag so how is this possible? Why did we not know about this before. We all four sat in the shuttle anyway since he spoke broken english as did everyone else. The stupid shuttle took us across the street literally and placed us in front of a bank where he insisted that we must get exchage all our money because they did not take thai BHAT or USD in Cambodia. Guess he got a “cut” from the bank teller who was outside spoking a cigarette and quickly head into the bank when the shuttle drove up. Now this we knew was a lie since we had already read that USD and Thai BHAT was taken all over cambodia. Then he told us we had to take one of the buses or cab drivers he told us we should take to go to Siem Reep. This we knew was crap. Cambodian busses were notorious for making the three our ride to Siem Reep last 6 hours and more by taking alternative routes or starting you off on a bus and then dumping you on the back of a pick-up truck. At this point we told him “back off”. Ask anyone he told us. I am not lying. I tell you the truth. Question is who were we going ask. No one spoke English. We told him to just leave us alone, get out, bug off. He finally got the message and looked at us like he cursed the ground we walked on.
Anyway we finally got a taxi driver to take four of us acroos to Siem Reep in a four door Toyota Camry. For the three hour drive to Siem Reep he charged $40USD for all four people. He did not speak a word of English if it did not include a monetary amout or the word “toilet”. Thus we were satisfied that it was sufficient for us to effectively communicate and made the trip with him. Charles at in front. Serena, Cara and I sat in the back.
The ride was long, bumpy and dirty. Cambodia has lots of dust you see. And in fact upon nearing the boder you already have all this dirt that begins to cover your body. The car was air conditioned for which we were very grateful. The ride was also like a roller coster. Huge pot holes which the driver either drove right into or swerved to avoid just to go into another one. At first we were terrified but about half an hour into the ride we realised we became less tense and relaxed allowing our bodies to swing with the flow of the car because that was just the way it was gonna be. Our driver stopped at one point though in the ride and without a single word parked the car, got out, walked a weee bit from the car, pulled downs his pants peed. Then he simply got back into the car and we were on our way.
Oh yes, he also stopped at a rest stop where cambodians sold us coconut water and beer and we could use the toilet. Now when I say toilet. I do not mean a western toilet. I mean a toilet where you have to squat to the ground and flush it by using a bucket of water from a tub. It is not for the lighthearted is all I can say. There is hardly ever tissue in the toilets as Thai and Cambdians use water from a bucket or nearby hose to wash themselves. So one always has to walk with their own paper as bought in convenience stores or taken from your western bathroom at the hotels.
Anyway once we got to Siem Riep the cab driver just abruptly stopped and parked us and got out of the car without a word. He dropped us amoung a huge group of Tuk Tuk Drivers who themselved opened our doors and advised us to get out of the car because that is as far as our cab driver will take us. We told our cab driver to take us to our hotel but he just put his had up meaning “no”. We soon found out what this was about. The tuk tuk drivers here make their money from driving tourist around to sites. They will stay with you for the entire time and take you where you want to go, supply you with a guide, take you to restaurants and hotels(usually of their choice) and they will get a “cut from the hotel”, restaurant and guide. Plus you pay them of course.
All in all because all tourist really look like to people here is a big wad of cash, you can trust no one. Scams are always waiting at your feet and you have to try to stay one step ahead of them.
BUT God!!!!! Siem Reep and Angkor WAT are MAJESTIC once we saw them in their glory all memories of the border drifted away. We just all chucked it up to well, an experience.
We got a lovely hotel for $20 a night with crisp and clean white sheets. Fresh towels and a TV. Wow!!!!!! Luxury.
We also eventally got a most sweet and wonderful Tuk Tuk Driver who took us around for two whole days for a total sum of $10 USD per person. That included taking us to all the sites. To and from our hotel if we wished. To restaurants and even to the airport when Serena and Cara had to fly back to the airport. You see Cambodians are also some of the sweetest people we have met.
After 20 hours of flight time and a layover in Tokyo we finally arrived in Bangkok. We were greeted by the ultramodern, shinny new Don Maung international airport. After a quick pass through immirgration we were handed visa and ready to venture into Thailand.
Thanks to Monique we had a hotel pre-arranged. Typically I wait until we get to our destination end up spending hours hauling our backpacks in the hot sun looking for guesthouses. After our long flight I’m definitely glad we had a place to lay our head.
Oddly I feel much more at ease in Bangkok than on our previous visit. Not to downplay the energy of this Asian metropolis of 6 million people, but things seem a little more chilled out. The traffic seems less congested, the tuk tuk drivers a little less aggressive and the streets less crowded.
On our first full day we spent the day exploring the backpacker’s nieghborhood of Banglamphu. We’re a few blocks away from the infamous Khao San road in an area border by the walls of a temple. The bordering temple gives this enclave a more intimate feel. The area is filled with guest houses, food stalls and vendors selling any amenity that a backpacker may need to buy. It’s fair to say that you can show up with absolutely nothing and be fully outfitted with everyting they need for an extended trip to Asia.
After Bangkok we’ll slowly make our way north to the cultural center of Chaing Mai before heading back to Bangkok to met up with some more travel partners.