Like any good headline, this one is meant only for dramatic effect (smile).  But I mean, really, listen to this.  We paid for a large bus seat from Sihanoukville to Kampot. But what showed up at our hotel. A old 4 door, 5 person Toyota Camry, with four large western adults already inside. The company owner or whatever he was drove up also in his own new car, came out, and while holding his cell phone to his ear,  said to us “our apologies, but our bus broke down and so you will have to go to Kampot (1 hour away) by this car. He pointed to the old Camery.  Was this a joke? No? The westerners in the car, ironically happen to be a British couple and the guys mother whom we had spent the day with the day before. They could not believe it either. They were told the same story when they were picked up.  They,  just like us, frustrated with the whole thing had conceeded to Cambodia’s unspoken rules. We piled in. Four of us in the back literally taking turns to sit on each other during the ride. Big Man,lucky Charles sat next to the driver in his own seat.  

So back to our border crossing out of Cambodia. As you know we made it into Cambodia in dramatic fashion, but getting out of Cambodia to cross into Vietnam was a whole other story.  That, we did in ”Style”.  We were in the beautiful little town called Kep City so chose to cross via the little known border (to westerners that is) of Ha Tien.  From out hotel to the Vietnam border should be aobu one hour we were told. First it took an extremly slow Tuk Tuk driver picking us up from our hotel.  He drove so slower that even a donkey cart would have no problem passing us at lightning speed. But we relaxed and took it all in stride as we went though the beautiful salt fields of cambodia. We had never seen how seasalt was created before and that was nice to see. “Want photo” our Tuk Tuk driver asked. He took a photo of is in front of the salt fields. Then, Charles told him “ok, quick, to the border”.  Our Tuk Tuk driver being such a nice man and all proceeded to stop in front of  a Buddha Monestary.  “Take picture”?  he said.  We got out and took a picture and in so doing met too teenage monks in thier flowing orange and yellow garments, who were just as facinated with us and we were of them for this entire trip so far. We were glad to take pictures with them and they were glad to practice their English.   They told us in broken English, “to go in good speed and good luck with the rest of our trip”. Then we proceeded on and our Tuk Tuk Driver stopped at a stall to buy us some water. I needed to use the bathroom so I asked my Tuk Tuk driver if I could use one. It seems  like a litte restaurant spot even if it was made only of some dry coconut branches.  He asked them and they said yes, yes, of course in Cambodian. So a lady ushered me back to the kitchen area which I thought odd.  Then she pointed me to the corner of the kithchen where there were some large buckets of water and a bit of space behind them. I was looking at her meaning “where is the toilet”? She understood what I was asking because she again signaled (we both did not speak the other’s language) that I should do my business in that very space next to the buckets. She smiled and closed the door.  I looked around.  I looked at the floor.  What can I say…. you must understand,  I was desparate.   I handled my business and thanked her graciously with a bow,  for the use of her kitchen floor.  

We were on our way and what should have taken 1 hour had now, so far, taken 2 and a half hours.   Then our Tuk Tuk Driver stopped when he came up to some people who seemed to be just hanging out. Some had motorbikes.  We were informed that he, the Tuk Tuk driver could not take us all the way to the Vietnam border but rather we would just pay him and then proceed to get on the back of a motorbike and the drivers will take us to the Border.  Now you have to understand that we could have argued. Buy why?  We discussed price with the motorbike driver and for $5 each we made a deal. They would take us to the Vietnam border. Another question you might want to ask is - why did our Tuk Tuk driver not just take us all the way to the border?  We do not know and did not care the know. When in Cambodia, do as the Cambodians tell you to do.  Everyone cuts their deals in Cambodia and the tourist just have to play along or get left behind. Sooooo they took our backpacks, positioned one on each bike in front of the driver while we positioned ourselves on the back of the driver.  Away we went!!!!  Our Tuk Tuk driver flashed us a genuine (i think), toothless smile and waved up hearty goodbyes.  I looked back at him in panick and then looked ahead at Charles, already speeding off with his driver, in great anticipation and even greater fear!!!   We have been doing this by ourselves all this time, based on our own  plan, and have yet to see one other westerner. Lawd!!!!!

Our ride was for about half an hour. We thought we were coming to the Vietnam border but then were told by our driver that this is the Cambodian exit border. We got off, they waited for us and we had our passports stamped for exiting by the Cambodian authourities. Then we got back on the bikes and headed off to what hopefully would be the Vietnam border.  After another 20 miniute ride low and behold, a huge sign saying “WELCOME TO VIETNAM”. Welcome to the land of french baguettes, fried crickets, cockroaches and worms, roasted dog, Ho Chi Mhin, Saigon and more Vietnam war movies than I care to remember.  I waved as we approached the border and  and shouted in full effect, “ HELLO VIETNAM”!!!! My driver  on to whom I had been holding on tightly,  shouted in pretty good English and just as loud as I did….. “Goodbye Cambodia, Hello Vietnam”!!!!! We laughed.

By that time we got off the bikes, our locks, our clothes, our skin was orange, a result of being layered with the Cambodian orange clay colored dust we were driving through. We looked terrible. Now we know why Cambodians wear long sleeves and heavy dust mask when riding.  But who cared about being orange. We had made it in grand orange Style!!!!!! 

But I want you to understand is that Cambodia is a most beautiful place. All Charles says about Kep City and Kampot is true. And what can compare to Angkor Wat on this earth.? Nothing!!! You see, Camobia is like this place where on first sight you go, “what is there to see here?” And then like an oasis in the dessert this beauty emerges and just knocks you off your feet. It is an emotional place because of the poverty and its history is never far behind from one’s mind because visually there are children begging and victims of mine explosions begging as well. But isn’t that what travel is for? It’s not always meant to be a picnic for the tourist to eat at. So they can scam me how they want (in moderation of course). To put it in perspective, 40 US dollars is what a teacher makes here in a month.   There is a politics behind this country that must be understood before it can be judged.  It is a horrifying one and still the people persist. I wonder how they do it. Visit absolutely if you can. The hotels are cheap, the food is out of this world - love the Sweet and Sour Fish Soup and Khemer Curries, the country is all beautiful….love the “hello’s” and dialouge like -

 ”Where are you from? Africa?”

 ”No, America”.

“Huh, then home come so black?

…..yes, now that is a whole other story….. get into that later.

Gotta love it!!!!!

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